Showing 11 items matching tamboured lace
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Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece
... tamboured lace... of needle run and tamboured embroidery. Needle run lace is simply... of needle run and tamboured embroidery. Needle run lace is simply ...This beautiful piece has been hand embroidered with coloured thread onto a machine made net. The net would most likely have been made on a stocking frame or Heathcoat’s Bobbinet machine and the intricate handwork appears to be a mixture of needle run and tamboured embroidery. Needle run lace is simply outlined in thread and then filled in by darning and other stitches. Tamboured lace is made with a very fine metal or bone crochet hook making chain stitch with the net stretched out over a frame. Limerick lace from Ireland is just such a lace where the stitches used on the machine made net vary considerably. According to Pat Earnshaw, a British lace historian, there was one Limerick lace collar that used 47 different filling stitches. The lace industry in Limerick was started by Charles Walker in 1829 when he brought 20 girls from England to set up a lace making school. Many Irish women who learned the craft worked from home but Walker knew that he would get more consistent and cleaner work if he could oversee the work being done so he built a factory for the women. Limerick lace lost popularity after Walker died in 1842 but was revived in the late 1880s and continued to be made into the 20th century but never reached the heights of the Walker period. This delicate example is from the 1920s and was cut from a larger piece which was most likely attached to an item of sleek underwear. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by three generations of Amess women - Jane, Janet and Unity. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island.Machine made net with coloured hand embroidery. Cut from larger piecelace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, embroidery, tamboured lace, limerick lace -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Trim
... it would be an elegant trim for bed linen or lingerie. Tambour lace...Length of tamboured net limerick lace with repeating motifs... it would be an elegant trim for bed linen or lingerie. Tambour lace ...This is a fine example of tamboured net executed in the Limerick style but it is very difficult to assess if it is handmade or machine made. Typically, machine made motifs were identical, and while these motifs do have some variation this could be due to the age and storage conditions of the piece. At 13.4cm in width it would be an elegant trim for bed linen or lingerie. Tambour lace is so called as it is made with the net stretched over a circle (tambour or drum) and the lace made by hand using a very fine crochet hook, or it could have been machine made on a Bonnaz machine from the 1890s onwards or the Schiffli machine.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Length of tamboured net limerick lace with repeating motifs of foliage and branches primarily concentrated to one edge. Some distortion of the motifs due to either stretching or style.lace, janet amess lace collection, churchill island, amess, trim, tambour, limerick lace -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Collar
... is clear to see. Limerick lace originated in Ireland with tambour... with tambour lace which was applied on to net using a very fine hook ...At 38.8cm on its widest edge this delicate lace collar would sit nicely across the shoulders with the collar points extending approximately 10cm onto the bodice. It is a fine example of hand embroidered Limerick lace and the variety of stitches used is clear to see. Limerick lace originated in Ireland with tambour lace which was applied on to net using a very fine hook with chain stitch. A later development was run lace where the design was marked out on net using a needle with cotton thread. The design was then filled using darning and decorative stitches. The darning and buttonhole stitches are quite obvious in this piece. According to the British lace historian, Pat Earnshaw, there was one Limerick lace collar that was decorated using 47 different filling stitches. In addition, needlerun forms were often combined with tamboured outlines to add further contrast.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Hand embroidered Limerick lace collar, with three straight edges trimmed with an oval motif, and a fourth semi-circular with simple reinforcement.Packaged with note: "Limerick Lace Collar"lace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, limerick, collar, clothing, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Chemise, c 1850
... with tambour lace which was applied on to net using a very fine hook... originated in Ireland with tambour lace which was applied on to net ...This is an elegant chemise formerly owned by the grandmother of Mrs Janet Amess and dated approximately 1850. It is made of Limerick lace embroidered on to square net (which is now unprocurable) and it opens at the front. The chemise was an undergarment worn against the skin and underneath the corset therefore fine fabrics were favoured. Limerick lace originated in Ireland with tambour lace which was applied on to net using a very fine hook with chain stitch. A later development was run lace where the design was marked out on net using a needle with cotton thread. The design was then filled using darning and decorative stitches. The Limerick lace industry began in the Irish city of Limerick and blossomed in the first Golden Age of Irish lace making (1820 – 1860) before the onset of the depression and the Potato Famine. The handwritten note included with this garment clearly illustrates their ongoing interest and the value that the Amess ladies placed upon the history of lace garments.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries.Limerick lace, open at front. Square net.Packed with note"Real Limerick Lace undergarment" and two notes in Janet Amess' writing see 0036lace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, limerick, square net, amess, garment, undergarment, clothing -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece Border on Net
... with a tamboured design in the style of Limerick lace. Machines were so... with a tamboured design in the style of Limerick lace. Machines were so ...This machine made net (76cm x 38) is trimmed on the edge with a tamboured design in the style of Limerick lace. Machines were so proficient in copying handmade lace that it is very difficult to tell if the trim is done by hand or by machine. Tambour lace was the earliest form of Limerick lace and was worked in chain stitch onto machine made net using a very fine crochet hook, so fine in fact that some practitioners used a sewing needle with the eye cut out and the pointed end inserted into a wooden handle.The lace industry in Limerick was started by Charles Walker in 1829 Many Irish women who learned the craft worked from home but Walker knew that he would get more consistent and cleaner work if he could oversee the work being done so he built a factory for the women. Limerick lace lost popularity after Walker died in 1842 but was revived in the late 1880s and continued to be made into the 20th century but never reached the heights of the Walker period. If this pattern is machine made it would have been made using a Bonnaz machine which was later called a Cornely machine. Antoine Bonnaz (1836 – 1915), a silk machine engineer, produced the first successful industrial chain stitch machine. His patent was finally acquired by Ercole Cornely in Paris who developed a hook shaped needle that could make a line of chain stitches. Initially these machines were only available in northern France but they were so popular that they were eventually exported to the rest of the world and are still being produced today. This lace edging is quite fine and would only be about a centimetre in width and so would be subtle in effect, perhaps to be used on undergarments or as a fichu for day wear.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was added to and refined over the course of three successive generations of women.Machine made net, trimmed with tamboured design in style of Limerick lace.Note in package "LIMERICK LACE TRIMMINGS"lace, janet amess lace collection, churchill island, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Collar
A five petal machine made lace collar, this item would be attached to the neckline of a garment and appears to be designed to lay flat although a little starch applied could make it stand up like petals around the neck. The Folk Art style rose between two rosebuds design is simple and outlined in fine black thread as are the scalloped edges of each collar petal The design being embroidered on to net leads one to believe that this was made on a Cornely machine. The Cornely machine had a great impact on the embroidery industry. It developed from hand tambouring and contemporary inventions in the field of sewing machines and was the first single-needle embroidery machine. It was easy to use, could be used in the home or a small workroom and as the mechanism developed it became difficult to distinguish machine from hand sewn. Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries.Cream lace collar with black edging. Rosette pattern and some scalloping around selvage edge. Machine made lacelace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, collar, garment, clothing, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece x 2
These pieces replicate bobbin lace as can be seen by the fine knots in the diamond shaped net ground and the gimp or outline has been given the appearance of being tamboured in a fine chain stitch. These cotton lace pieces have been cut from a larger piece which by shape and size appear to have been intended for a collar. They are machine made and very likely were woven on a Leavers machine with the chain stitch outline being added by a Bonnaz/Cornely machine. The Leavers machine, once coupled with the French Jacquard machine in the late 1830s, made excellent copies of any handmade lace which could be reproduced much more cheaply and much faster than the time consuming handmade laces. The Jacquard machine was invented by Joseph Marie Jacquard and was first demonstrated in 1801. It worked by threading a series of interlaced punched cards through the machine with each row of holes in the cards corresponding to a row in a textile design. The Jacquard loom influenced the future development of computer technology and its attachment to the Leavers net making machine opened the ability to recreate countless varieties of formerly handmade lace.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929Two triangles of lace cut from a larger piece, machine made, floral and leaf decorationchurchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess -
Kew Historical Society Inc
Clothing - Lace bodice, 1900s
The Fashion & Design collection of Kew Historical Society includes examples of women’s, men’s, children’s and infants' clothing from the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries. While the collection includes some examples of international fashion, most items were handmade or purchased in Melbourne. White cotton machine made net bolero with tambour work and a chemical lace medallion inserted centre backfashion and textiles collection - kew historical society, lace, women's clothing -
Australian Lace Guild - Victorian Branch
Tambour
Flouncing - costume trim.Embroidered net. Flounce of machine made net with floral design worked in chain stitch. Could possibly be handmade but is more likely to be machine made. -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Clothing - Apron
Worn by donor's grandmother at Bethley Bridge near Maryborough, unique style of embroidery,Apron, Hostess, Laced edged and embroidered with wool (Tambour Style), cream cotton.costume, female working -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Functional object - Crochet Hook, Mid 19th Century
Crochet came from the Old French word crochet, meaning ‘small hook.’ This word comes from Croche. Croche comes from the Germanic word croc. Both mean hook and crochetage, which means a single stitch used to join separate pieces of lace together. People used this term in making French lace in the 1600s and the word crochet describes the hook and the craft. Evidence shows the starting point was the mid-1800s but as early as the late 16th and early 17th century, crocheted braiding was used in clothing and other products. Like on a man’s cape at the Victoria and Albert Museum. Crochet evolved in the early 1700s when stitching material on a tambourine reached Europe after going through India, Persia, North America, Turkey, North Africa and other places around the world. People removed the background fabric used for tambouring. The French named the new technique “crochet in the air.” In the early 1800s, shepherd’s knitting came about, along with the shepherd’s hook. It’s thicker than a modern crochet hook but still with a hooked end. By the mid-1800s, it became known as crochet or slip stitch crochet. In the 60s, the granny square and crocheted home ware appeared and became more popular.A significant domestic item used in crochet or craft work and recovered from the wreck of the Schomberg in the 1970s. For more information regard the wrecking of the Schomberg see note sect this document. The Schomberg has historical significance as one of the first luxurious ships built to bring emigrants to Australia. The collection of recovered artefacts from the Schomberg wreck and held at Flagstaff Hill Museum are significant because of their potential to interpret the story of the Schomberg and its passengers.Crochet hook made from Bovine Bone. It has two sections that screw apart. Recovered from the wreck of the Schomberg. Nonewarrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, schomberg, shipwrecked-artefact, clipper ship, black ball line, 1855 shipwreck, aberdeen clipper ship, captain forbes, peterborough shipwreck, ss queen, crochet hook, crocheterage, craft